Venus Williams joined Chanel on Tuesday as she took her guests on a journey to discover the beauty and colors of the Scottish countryside. The runway featured an ode of tweed on the last day of Paris Fashion Week — an exploration of the history, beauty and appeal of this fabric that is synonymous with Parisian fashion icon.
The gleaming designs evoked the colors and patterns of the River Tweed, which flows east through the Border region in Scotland and northern England. This river gave the fabric its name and inspired Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel to create Chanel.
These are the highlights from Tuesday’s 2022 fall-winter shows:
CHANEL'S JOURNEY OVER THE BORDERS
Viard said that the collection was inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s journey along the River Tweed. She wanted to create tweeds that reflected the landscape. The designer, Karl Lagerfeld’s successor after his death in 2019, continued her creative journey by drawing inspiration from the life of the founder of the house. This has also included a collection that pays tribute to Chanel’s childhood orphanage.
It was Tuesday’s chapter that traces the late years of the fashion icon. She “would gather bouquets and ferns to inspire local artisans to create the tones she desired”
Signature house skirts were available in muted shades of pinks, blues, purples and burgundies. The unique weave of the textured, irregular fabric weft made them dappled like natural hues. The tweed-upholstered seats were occupied by guests who clutched invites made from matching pink material.
It was also a lesson in history: Chanel was mistress to the Duke of Westminster in 1920s Scotland, and would often wear his jackets. The men’swear elements were cut to the bare essentials: flat, boxy jackets in loose proportions with large retro pockets.
This saleable collection was not without its charms. It didn’t seem bold enough in terms silhouette and played it safe. It also didn’t seem to have the tongue-in cheek attitude Lagerfeld was known for, despite occasional touches like chained hip flasks and logo-engraved black wellies. Maybe Lagerfeld set the bar too high or Viard doesn’t want to rock it.
Experts believe that fabric tweed is the less flashy cousin to tartan. It was actually named accidentally by a London merchant who misread the name wool “tweel”, which is the Scottish name for “twill” a textile weave, and confused it with the River Tweed.
The river gave its name to the fabric in Hawick in 1826, but this was an error.
This material was originally from Scotland and Ireland and was often worn by farmers.
THE RETURN OF THE MIU MIU MICRO MINI
Miuccia Prada’s quirky little sister, Miu Miu, was in a typical mood for contrasts this season. She was dressed up in accessories to create a visual kinesis at a rare coed show.
Belts, neck scarves from the ’70s, socks, straps and stripes gave styles a chaotic feel. A flying jacket, which is normally made in tan leather but was made in python, was also found unexpectedly. A preppy look was achieved with patent leather shoes and knee-high woolen socks. This contrasted well with more mature looks like a gray, menswear coat.
The Miu Miu mini was the real star of the show. It was also seen last season, and it has been a viral hit that graces red carpets all over the world. The truncated mini, with its dramatic drop waist, was featured on many Tuesday looks. It looked like a tennis skirt at times, but it was also a Gladiator’s outfit at other times. It was always spectacular.
This style crossed-pollinated the body to truncated shirts in a fashion moment typical of the Italian billionaire.
ENFANTS RICHES DESPRIMES
Enfants Riches Deprimes, French for “Depressed Rich Children”, was responsible for a feeling of slumbering bourgeoisie. It was overseen by Henri Alexander Levy, the house founder and designer.
The brand is known for its high-end jackets and T-shirts starting at $1,000 and jackets that go up to $95,000, but the point of the brand is elitism. It’s also a postmodern commentary on the nature and value of money.
Tuesday was Tuesday, according to the designer. He also sold a $7,000 cashmere necktie, which has been controversial.
The V-shapes are on-trend and can be seen in a black dress with a white shirt and a minimalist black coat without a lapel.
The loose, striped silken pajamas recall a child who isn’t able to get a job. They were stricken with humor and wore long, kinky rubber gloves that reached the elbow that could be used for cooking.